Bosnischer Kaffee

Served in a džezva with a copper tray, a cube of sugar and rahat lokum. It is a sitting, not a drink.

The grounds settle; you pour slowly and stop before they follow. Nobody is in a hurry and being in one marks you out.

It is the cheapest way to spend an hour in Travnik and the most reliable way to end up talking to someone.

food culture

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A brined sheep's-milk cheese from the high pasture, sold by the slab in the bazaar.

Grilled minced-meat fingers in somun bread. Travnik argues about who does them best and does not expect to settle it.